Suits come with their own unique set of fashion rules. From not buttoning the bottom button to ensuring your shirt cuffs peek out 1-1.5 cm beyond your jacket sleeves, these guidelines have origins that might surprise you. So, where did these conventions come from? Thanks to insights from Jan van Teeffelen, Quality Manager at Suit Supply, a Dutch brand specializing in fine suits, we can explore some intriguing backstories behind these sartorial standards.
Cuff Buttons: A Legacy from Battlefield Surgeons
Did you know the cuff buttons on suit jackets were originally designed for battlefield surgeons? The functionality allowed them to roll up their sleeves quickly to perform surgeries right on the front lines.
While I find the idea of rolling up sleeves on a tailored suit a bit off-putting, it’s a different story with a casual cotton blazer.
So why didn’t surgeons simply take off their jackets? Removing them would have made it difficult for the enemy to recognize who the doctors were, putting them at greater risk during combat.
The Bottom Button Rule: A Royal Influence
Many believe the tradition of leaving the bottom button unfastened comes from King Louis XIV. Legend has it that during a banquet, the king's portly physique prevented him from comfortably buttoning all his jacket buttons, prompting him to leave the bottom one undone. Out of respect, the gentlemen at the event followed his lead.
Shirt Cuffs: A Nod to Durability
In earlier times, suits were a luxury, and their owners treated them with utmost care. To protect their investment, men would often let their shirt cuffs extend beyond the suit sleeves. This practice minimized friction and wear during everyday activities like eating or writing, inadvertently establishing a timeless standard: shirt cuffs should extend 1-1.5 cm beyond the jacket sleeves.
The Top Buttonhole: From Practicality to Decoration
Today, the top buttonhole primarily serves a decorative function, allowing for a badge or flower to be attached. However, it once had a practical purpose - it could connect with a button on the opposite side to turn the suit jacket into a closed coat, offering protection against the wind while riding horseback and keeping gentlemen warm.
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