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5 Fashion Powerhouses from Africa Changing the Game

Writer's picture: Tom GoedhartTom Goedhart

Updated: Oct 10, 2024

When you think of Africa, what pops into your head? Disease, poverty, and maybe the echo of gunfire in the distance? It's an image that's hard to shake, but here's something that'll surprise you: South Africa, Congo, Kenya, and Tanzania host regular fashion weeks, while Nigeria and Angola rank among the world’s top luxury fashion consumers. West Africa is making serious waves in fashion, much like the UK, Italy, and France on the global stage.

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Here are five iconic fashion communities from Africa. Yes, they’re a minority on a continent still fighting hunger and hardship, but they represent hope - a cultural flare of style and spirit amid the challenges:

La Sapeur (Republic of Congo)

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Not long ago, I introduced you to the "kings" of Congo's streets. The term La Sapeur comes from French, meaning the Society of Elegant Gentlemen. Members of this community are die-hard shoppers, willing to skip meals and even housing comforts just to score luxury goods. In Congo, respect comes with the title of a Sapeur.

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La Sapeur’s heart is in Brazzaville, where half the population struggles with poverty. But the Sapeurs paint an entirely different picture as they roam the streets in high-end brands like Saint Laurent Paris, Kenzo, and Prada. After their fashionable strolls, they return to rundown homes, but their treasured luxury pieces remain carefully guarded.

Skhothane (South Africa)

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In South Africa, a group of free-spirited young individuals formed the Skhothane community. They’ve got a serious obsession with Italian luxury brands like Arbiter, Rossi Moda, and Sfarzo, while also embracing b-boy dancing, heavily influenced by the 1980s New York breakdance scene.

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Though they were already known in Africa, Skhothane exploded onto the global stage in 2012 when members shocked the world by burning their branded items - and even setting cash on fire.

The Renegades/Afrometals (Republic of Botswana)

Botswana is probably the last place you’d expect to find metal music lovers, yet it’s home to a thriving metal scene. Over the years, photographers and filmmakers have captured the passion of these Afrometals, turning it into something of a cultural phenomenon.

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Their style? Pure metal: leather, studs, cowboy hats, and the like. The women in this scene are particularly striking, breaking away from traditional African aesthetics with bold, edgy outfits that scream individuality.

Herero Victorians (Namibia)

In Namibia, the Herero people have developed a style heavily influenced by German colonial rule. Herero women don colorful Victorian-style gowns that cover them head to toe, while the men dress like soldiers or landowners from the West.

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Following the end of the war with German colonists in 1915, Herero warriors adopted Western fashion by stripping defeated enemies of their clothing, wearing them as spoils of war. Over time, this Western influence fused with traditional customs, creating a unique Namibian style.

Swenkas (South Africa)

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Every Saturday night in Johannesburg, an unofficial fashion show takes place to crown the most stylish man in town. The contestants? Local laborers. The prize? Anything from discount vouchers to livestock.

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The Swenkas, a term derived from “swanking,” work tough jobs under the African sun, but when night falls, they transform into stylish competitors, strutting down the runway with pride. It’s a sight to behold!

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