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Is Formal Dress Still… Well, Formal?

Writer's picture: Tom GoedhartTom Goedhart

It’s hard to avoid mentioning COVID, but the pandemic surprisingly pushed global fashion trends closer to my personal preferences. Comfort and practicality have now taken precedence over flashy, purely aesthetic pieces.

Everywhere you turn, you’ll notice this shift toward a more relaxed, casual style. These days, smart casual seems to be the pinnacle of "respectable" fashion, rather than the traditional full suit. But to answer the question posed in the title: Formal style remains formal. Its core principles haven't changed, despite shifting perceptions. Formal wear is more than just clothing; it’s a cultural tradition, where every detail reflects centuries of refinement. Choosing to go formal is about showing respect - to yourself, your peers, and the etiquette of the occasion.


For any event labeled “formal,” a well-tailored suit remains your safest bet - just try not to outshine the groom at a wedding! 😆 So, what defines formal style in this era?


Fit Above All Else

The foundation of formal style is a flawless fit. "Suit" itself implies something that “fits,” and a well-tailored suit is key. While other outfits allow for more variety in shape and design, formalwear doesn't.

Getting a suit that fits perfectly often means turning to a tailor. Even if you're working with off-the-rack options, it's not the end of the world. Just be sure to select the right size and tailor it as needed.


Know the Etiquette

Not all formal events are created equal - some require very specific levels of formality. Extremely formal events like "White tie" or "Morning dress" are rare but highly structured. More common is "Black tie," which calls for a black bow tie, black dinner suit, white dress shirt, and black dress shoes.

Remember, events with strict dress codes aren’t the place to showcase your individuality. Instead, see it as a uniform that shows respect and maintains harmony with those around you.


Controlled Personal Style

Formal style doesn’t mean you have to completely sacrifice your personality, but it does demand restraint. Your personal expression should blend seamlessly with long-established norms, not overpower them.

Accessories and colors should complement your look. If you're thinking of making a statement with a flashy tie, like one covered in cartoon characters, think again!


Say Goodbye to Black Suits

While black tuxedos are still a classic choice, black suits are often better left in the closet. Unless you're Tom Ford, black suits can limit your shoe options and often have connotations linked to the hospitality or service industry.

Opt for gray or navy instead - they’re versatile, look great on a variety of skin tones, and give you more flexibility with shoe and accessory choices.


Dress to Blend In

Each formal occasion has its own context. What counts as formal at one event may not be the same at another. A cozy, friend-focused wedding requires a different level of formality than a grand 500-guest event.

Similarly, workplace standards vary. A banker’s idea of formal dress might differ from that of someone working in tech, where the work environment tends to be more laid-back. Always dress to blend in with the setting.


Be Flexible

Formal style has its rules, but that doesn’t mean you need to wear an outdated suit. Like everything else, formalwear evolves, though its changes are more gradual compared to fast fashion trends. Suits may shift in details like lapel width, waist shaping, button placement, and pant length over time. Embrace these subtle shifts - it’s all part of keeping your look modern.


Mix and Match

You don’t always need a matching set to look formal. Mixing and matching separates is totally acceptable if a full suit feels too stiff. Just make sure the pieces contrast enough.

Avoid pairing items that are too similar in color or fabric, or it may look like you’re trying and failing to match a suit 😂. Instead, think complementary colors and textures.

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