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Writer's pictureTom Goedhart

Authentic or Fake? A Guide to Identifying Genuine Material

Updated: Dec 19

Let’s get one thing straight: I’m team real leather all the way 😎. For everyday items like bags, wallets, belts, and shoes, my go-to is always real leather - something that perfectly matches my style while offering long-term value. It doesn’t make much sense to me to opt for a material that imitates the real deal. Take faux leather jackets, for example: “Looks just like the real thing!” they say. But in the end, it’s the same old story - peeling, cracking, and flaking 😑. Meanwhile, real leather ages beautifully, developing a rich patina that only gets better with time.

That said, I get the appeal of faux leather - it’s budget-friendly. Modern technology has made synthetic leather look remarkably similar to genuine leather, but if you’re like me, learning to distinguish between the two is more than just practical; it’s downright fascinating 🤓.


What Is Real Leather?


Real leather comes from animal hides like cow, buffalo, sheep, or even deer. It’s divided into four main grades, ranked by quality:

  1. Full Grain

  2. Top Grain

  3. Genuine

  4. Bonded (Pressed leather – not shown in the chart but will be explained in the article, don’t worry 😛)


Let’s break it down:


Full Grain

This is the crème de la crème of leather. It’s the topmost layer of the hide, left in its natural state with no sanding or buffing. Because it retains its natural imperfections, it’s incredibly durable and breathable. True, flawless Full Grain leather is rare, but corrected grain leather - buffed and finished to remove imperfections - offers a polished alternative.


Top Grain

The second tier in quality, Top Grain leather, comes from the same upper layer as Full Grain but is sanded down for a smoother, more uniform surface. Manufacturers apply a finish to mimic natural leather patterns, making it slightly more affordable.

Genuine

Despite the name, Genuine Leather isn’t the top-tier material some people assume. It’s the layer beneath Full and Top Grain, less durable but still real leather. Suede, for instance, comes from this category. Fun fact: I used to think suede was some luxurious type of leather until I learned better 🤦‍♂️.


Bonded

At the bottom of the leather hierarchy, Bonded Leather is made by compressing scraps of real leather with adhesives and coating it with a synthetic layer. It’s leather-like but heavily processed - perfect for budget products but not a long-term investment.


How to Spot Real Leather

Now for the main event: distinguishing genuine leather from synthetic leather. Faux leather, often called synthetic, vegan, or eco-leather, is made from plastic or fabric fibers designed to mimic real leather. Let’s decode the differences:


Check the Label

This might seem obvious, but it’s a good starting point. Products made from genuine leather often proudly state “100% real leather,” while faux leather labels use terms like “PU,” “leatherette,” or “vegan leather.” When in doubt, double-check those descriptions.


Inspect the Edges

Real leather has rough, fibrous edges, while synthetic leather’s edges are smooth and perfect - almost too perfect.

The edge of leather: untreated (raw) vs. polished (burnished).

Synthetic leather edge.

Look for Pores

Real leather has natural, irregular pore patterns, while faux leather often features uniform, embossed pores. Bonus tip: Synthetic leather tends to have an unnatural shine that’s a dead giveaway.

Genuine leather (left) vs. synthetic leather (right).

Feel the Texture

Run your fingers over the material. Real leather feels soft and pliable with natural elasticity. Faux leather, on the other hand, often feels stiff, plasticky, and overly smooth.

Genuine leather (left) vs. synthetic leather (right).

Take a Whiff

Real leather has a distinct, earthy smell, while synthetic leather smells... well, like chemicals. If you’re not sure, trust your nose - it rarely lies.


Check the Back

Flip the material over. Real leather has a rough, suede-like underside, while synthetic leather often has a fabric or mesh backing.

The back side of genuine leather has a naturally rough and uneven texture.

Burn Test (Proceed with Caution 🔥)

While not exactly practical, the burn test can be revealing. Real leather chars slowly, emitting a smell similar to burning hair. Faux leather melts quickly, producing a sharp plastic odor.


The Water Test

Real leather absorbs water, albeit slowly, while synthetic leather repels it. Just drop a few drops of water to see how the material reacts.

Genuine leather (left) vs. synthetic leather (right).


Choosing between real and faux leather comes down to personal preference, priorities, and budget. Real leather boasts durability, comfort, and a timeless aesthetic, while faux leather offers affordability and animal-friendliness. Still, knowing how to differentiate them ensures you’re getting exactly what you’re paying for.


So, next time you’re shopping for leather goods, don’t just take the seller’s word for it - inspect, feel, and test for yourself. Trust me, the confidence of knowing the difference is priceless 😉.


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