If you appreciate sneakers but don’t label yourself a full-on sneakerhead, you likely lean towards a relaxed yet adaptable aesthetic. Minimalist sneakers have been a staple, thanks to the trailblazing efforts of brands like Common Projects. However, if you’re looking for something beyond the classic monochromatic vibe, there’s a whole world waiting for you to explore. Enter the German Army Trainer (GAT) - a sneaker with a rich history that's been gaining serious traction lately.
What’s the GAT All About?
Let’s set the record straight: GAT refers to a style, not a specific brand.
When you think of GATs, picture three key features:
A suede overlay on the toe, typically in off-white or gray
Leather side panels
A distinctive yellow gum rubber sole
The origins of GAT trace back to the 1970s when the German military needed training shoes for their 500,000 troops. Enter two iconic brothers - Adi Dassler of adidas and Rudolf Dassler of Puma. The brothers found themselves at odds over the GAT design, each aiming to claim it for their respective brands. To this day, the true “creator” of GAT remains a topic of debate, with both brands laying claim to the design.
Despite the sibling rivalry, GATs served their military purpose until the end of the Cold War and the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989.
Martin Margiela: The GAT Revival
As the West German Army downsized, many soldiers transitioned to civilian life, often selling their surplus military gear, including GATs. This is where things get interesting. Belgian designer Martin Margiela stumbled upon a pair of GATs in 1990 and incorporated them into his fashion shows, starting with his debut in 1999.
The result? A hit that propelled GATs back into the fashion spotlight. Maison Margiela didn’t just replicate the classic design; they infused it with contemporary flair through paint splatters, unique colorways, and innovative materials.
I even own a pair of Maison Margiela Replicas that sport a crinkled paper look - definitely a conversation starter! 😆
Margiela has become so closely associated with GAT that many casual observers mistakenly believe the brand was its originator. It’s a scenario reminiscent of Gucci and their famed Horsebit loafers, which also didn’t create the horsebit design 😂.
Replica model with a paint scale design.
Styling GATs
While GATs have military roots, they remain quintessentially sneakers. This makes them naturally compatible with jeans, chinos, shorts, and more.
But don’t box them in. Their sleek design allows them to be dressed up, making them a stylish alternative to tailored trousers (aim for an ankle-length hem) or even a suit. In a world that increasingly prioritizes comfort without sacrificing style, GATs stand out as a sharp choice.
GAT Options to Consider
Due to their appealing design and the absence of copyright restrictions, a variety of brands have introduced their own takes on GAT.
Broadway & Sons: The original GATs, crafted for military use in the 70s.
Replica của Maison Margiela: This brand continues to innovate with fresh colors and styles each year, though the price tag can be steep. 🙃
Beckett Simonon: Their premium GAT model features full-grain Italian leather, retailing for about $160.
Oliver Cabell: A pair from this brand has held up exceptionally well for me over the past 3-4 years - still looking sharp! 🧐
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