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Writer's pictureTom Goedhart

GAT – Have You Got a Pair Yet?

Sneakers are a go-to for many, but if you're not quite a "sneakerhead," you're probably after something versatile and straightforward. Minimalist designs have long been in the game, thanks to heavyweights like Common Projects. But if you’re thinking there's nothing else to discover, think again 😉 There’s still plenty more to explore.

Let me introduce you to the German Army Trainer (GAT), a classic with military roots that’s been making waves. It’s no surprise that this model is in high demand lately. With its perfect mix of sporty style and a touch of sophistication, the GAT has just enough character to keep you coming back.


The Origins of GAT

A quick clarification: GAT isn’t a specific brand – it’s a model, folks 😉


Here’s what makes GAT stand out:

  • Ivory or grey suede overlay on the toe

  • Leather strips on the sides

  • Yellow gum rubber sole

The story goes back to the 1970s when two German brothers were dominating the sportswear scene. Adolf “Adi” Dassler founded adidas, and his brother Rudolf created Puma. So, when the German Army needed sneakers for 500,000 soldiers, who else but these two giants could fill the order? However, there was a catch – a fierce rivalry over the design led to a standoff. Both adidas and Puma claim the GAT as their own, leaving its true origin shrouded in mystery. Regardless, GATs did their job for the German Army until the end of the Cold War in 1989.


Martin Margiela's Role in GAT's Fame

After the war, West Germany downsized its army, and soldiers sold off their military gear, including tons of GATs. But it wasn’t until 1990 when Belgian designer Martin Margiela got his hands on them. He showcased the GAT at his 1999 runway show, and the rest is history. Maison Margiela took GAT to new heights with its “Replicas” line, crafting versions with luxurious materials and creative twists, like splashes of paint and unconventional colors.

I’ve got a pair of the Maison Margiela Replicas myself, and they look like they’re made from crumpled paper – and I love them! 😆

The influence of Maison Margiela on the GAT is so profound that many people mistakenly think the fashion house created the design. It’s kind of like how Gucci's Horsebit loafers are iconic, even though Gucci didn’t invent the horsebit detail 😂.

The Replica paint-splatter model.


How to Wear GAT

Once a staple for soldiers, GATs are now a stylish, everyday sneaker. They’re super versatile and fit seamlessly into a casual wardrobe - jeans, chinos, shorts... you name it.

But here's the twist: GAT's clean design means they can be worn with trousers (especially ankle-length) or even a suit. In a world that's all about comfort, GATs strike the perfect balance between style and practicality.


GAT Options on the Market

Thanks to its classic design and lack of copyright ties, plenty of brands have crafted their own versions of GAT.

  • Broadway & Sons: The original GATs, used by the military back in the '70s.

  • Maison Margiela Replicas: Maison Margiela has continually released new iterations of the GAT, often with exciting new colors, but they don’t come cheap 🙃

  • Beckett Simonon: Their premium version is made with full-grain Italian leather and priced at $160.

  • Oliver Cabell: I’ve been wearing a pair for 3-4 years now, and they’re still holding up strong 🧐

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