As the trend for wearing suits continues to grow, finding them in various fashion shops, designer outlets, and tailoring services across Vietnam has become increasingly easy. However, despite the rising demand, the quality of suits available, particularly in the Hanoi market, often falls short. Many offerings prioritize consumer tastes and commercial appeal, frequently neglecting even the most basic quality standards.
So, how can you distinguish a good suit? In this article, I'll outline the fundamental elements to look for when evaluating a quality suit.
A suit consists of two main components: the jacket (known in Vietnam as "áo đờ-mi") and the trousers. Here’s a quick guide to assessing each part:
JACKET
SHOULDERS
The shoulders must align perfectly with your measurements. Shoulders that are too tight can restrict movement, while overly wide shoulders an all-too-common mistake by both tailors and customers - can lead to unsightly folds on either side.
This area is arguably the most crucial and often the hardest to tailor. If you opt for a ready-made suit, ensure that the shoulders fit well; other components can be adjusted to some extent. If the shoulders are off, the suit's overall appearance will be compromised, regardless of the brand.
Mike Ross from the TV series Suits exemplifies perfectly tailored shoulders.
COLLAR
The collar should snugly hug your neck. A gap between the shirt and jacket indicates a poor fit.
The opening scene with Jordan Belfort in "Wolf of Wall Street" serves as a classic example of a subpar suit: overly broad shoulders and a collar that gapes.
SLEEVE LENGTH
Jacket sleeves should be tailored short enough to reveal about 1 to 1.5 cm of the shirt sleeve underneath.
JACKET LENGTH
The appropriate jacket length is a topic of frequent debate. Brands like those from Korea and international fashion houses such as Dolce & Gabbana, Alexander McQueen, or Dior tend to produce shorter cuts for a youthful, edgy look. In Vietnam, many men’s fashion brands adopt this trend, which can be unflattering for those who aren't tall and slim. A jacket that’s cut too short may expose your backside when you walk, while a properly fitted jacket should contour gently to your body.
The safest length is to have the hem parallel to the first joint of your thumb, ensuring it covers the backside adequately.
A jacket with a safe length (hem parallel to the top joint of the thumb)
FRONT/BACK
When worn, both the front and back of the jacket should lie flat, free from folds or wrinkles due to being too tight, too loose, or poorly tailored. One common issue with the front is the appearance of X-shaped wrinkles when buttoned. Excess fabric causing bagginess in the back is another frequent concern.
The front seems a bit tight for Beckham's frame.
A jacket with excess fabric on the back.
WAIST
The suit jacket should contour the waist without creating a "boxy" or "square" appearance, which is often seen in many fashion houses. This element can be tailored according to the wearer’s preference.
However, it's essential to note that TOM FORD, known as the king of suits, employs a distinctive waist-cutting technique that many other brands lack. If you have a well-defined waist, don’t hesitate to accentuate it.
A "modern" suit by Dior with a boxy cut, not overly cinched at the waist.
In contrast, Tom Ford's suits are known for their signature waist cinching.
TROUSERS
WAISTBAND
The waistband should fit snugly around the waist, even without a belt. In Vietnam, there's a misconception that wearing loose trousers and relying on a belt is acceptable, which is incorrect. A belt should serve as an accessory, not a necessity.
When laying the trousers flat along the crease, the back waistband should sit higher than the front. This detail is crucial to prevent the waistband from "popping" when you sit or bend, which can expose your underwear or result in an untucked shirt.
Thom Browne is famous for trousers without belt loops.
A pair of trousers with a perfectly tailored waistband.
CROTCH
The crotch should fit snugly enough to avoid sagging while also providing ample room for comfortable sitting. A tight crotch is a mistake many tailors make when trying to design form-fitting trousers, leading to discomfort.
THIGHS AND LEGS
Regardless of your style preference, the trouser legs should have enough room to avoid clinging to your calves when you sit or climb stairs. If you’re wearing slim-fit trousers that grip your calves when seated, consider widening the legs by 1.5 to 2 cm.
A pair of trousers that fit well even when sitting.
These trousers look very "slim fit," but they are restrictive.
While there are more advanced criteria for discerning suit wearers, I’ll leave those for another discussion. I hope this information helps you acquire a beautifully tailored suit soon.
In my next article, I’ll review a tailored suit from Hanoi, evaluating it based on the criteria discussed here.
RYAN,
Comments