Material, fit, and color - these are the three key elements I always consider in judging the quality of clothing. Among these, color catches the eye first, followed by a deeper appreciation of fit and fabric.
Using color in everyday attire can be as simple or as complex as you make it. Today, let’s explore color as a language - a way to convey emotions, thoughts, and attitudes. Once chosen thoughtfully, color becomes a tool to express everything from subtle elegance to bold statements.
Color and Culture
The cultural lens on color in clothing gives us a unique perspective on the "why" behind fashion rules.
For instance, many of the guidelines surrounding men’s suits and tailoring originated in early 20th-century England, when distinctions were made between city and country wear. In bustling London, dark suits - typically navy or gray - paired with white shirts and dark ties were standard for weekdays. Meanwhile, in the countryside, tweed jackets, tattersall shirts, and brown shoes were the relaxed choice for leisure. Thus, “No brown in town” became the clear line between the two.
Almost every item in your wardrobe carries a cultural or historical story. For example, the classic combo of a black biker jacket and blue jeans stems from the mid-20th-century rebellious biker and rocker movements. Or take the white/light blue Oxford shirt paired with a navy blazer and beige chinos - a staple of Preppy and Ivy League styles.
Combining colors thoughtfully allows you to weave these stories into your outfits. Understanding these origins not only enriches your style but also adds depth to the “messages” your colors convey.
Color and Emotion
Color’s ability to evoke emotion is one of its most universally recognized powers. Designer Yohji Yamamoto, for instance, uses black to express a range of personal sentiments. While black is universal, Yohji imbues it with his own identity, making it his brand’s hallmark color.
“Black is humble and arrogant at the same time. It’s lazy and easy, yet deeply mysterious. Above all, the message of black is: ‘I don’t bother you, so don’t bother me.’” Yohji Yamamoto
Every color has its own emotional impact. During hot summer months, light shades and pastels feel refreshing and vibrant. In contrast, winter calls for darker tones like black, gray, and charcoal, wrapping us in comfort against the cold.
The Visual Language of Color
Over time, our senses adapt to scents we wear regularly, becoming familiar with them in a way others don’t. This can lead us to apply a bit more than we need - an effect that may be felt sharply by others in the confined space of an elevator.
Color works in a similar way. For the visual “language” of your attire to remain harmonious, a good balance is key. Start with a base of neutral tones: white or light blue shirts; jackets in navy, gray, or olive; jeans in indigo or black; gray or beige trousers; black or brown shoes. These neutrals create a versatile foundation for nearly any look.
An orange overcoat might be a bold choice, but if it’s your first, try a subtler option first.
Adding one "unusual" color - think burnt orange or mint green in a sweater, or a red scarf - can elevate your outfit without overwhelming it. Even when staying monochromatic, playing with different materials like leather, knit, and denim can add depth and texture to an outfit, enhancing its visual interest without adding new colors.
Even with an all-black palette, mixing different textures adds depth to an otherwise monochrome outfit.
Contrast is also important. Combining different colors, textures, and finishes can create visual depth in an outfit, adding subtle but impactful layers to your look. Leather jackets, sweaters, jeans, and leather shoes all have unique material qualities that offer contrast even in a single shade of black.
In the end, if it feels right, it’s right. Think of color through cultural, emotional, and stylistic lenses, and let your personality guide your choices.
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