If you’ve read my previous article about Nudie Jeans, you might already be familiar with the concept of raw (or dry) denim. However, the world of raw denim is much broader than just one brand, and Nudie is just one part of this growing trend. Recently, I’ve noticed more people in Vietnam becoming curious about “dirty” jeans, and some Facebook groups dedicated to raw denim have even popped up. As someone who has been rocking the "no wash" jeans for nearly four years, I’m thrilled to see the movement catching on.
For many of you, raw denim might still be a new concept, so let’s break it down and compare raw denim to regular denim. If you’re looking for a deeper dive into the subject, we’ll save that for another time.
Regular Denim
In the traditional process of making jeans, the final step is washing, which occurs after the dyeing process. This washing step lightens the jeans and can also add a "distressed" look, sometimes with stones used during the wash.
The goal of this wash is to soften the fabric and minimize shrinkage when the jeans reach the wearer. Because of the industrial washing process, regular denim is often referred to as "dead" denim, since the color is pretty much set. The fading is minimal over time, if it happens at all.
Raw denim
Raw denim, on the other hand, skips the washing stage and stops right after dyeing. This is why it's known as raw or dry denim. Each pair comes in its original, deep indigo color, and it’s fascinating because the wearer gets to influence how the color will evolve after the first wash.
The new pair of trousers (on the left) and after one year (on the right).
Typically, the first wash for raw denim happens after 6 months to a year of wear, assuming you’re wearing them regularly. Some hardcore raw denim enthusiasts even go without washing altogether, keeping their jeans until they’re absolutely worn out.
Raw denim is notorious for its ability to fade in a unique way. If you spill water on them and wipe with a tissue, you’ll see the tissue turn blue. This happens because raw denim only undergoes indigo dyeing without the washing step. Don’t worry, though - these stains are easy to clean if they transfer to light-colored clothes.
Wear your jeans for six months without washing, and you’ll be amazed at how much they change. The fabric will reflect your daily activities: creases will form around your knees, and if you often “slide” in your chair, you’ll see beautiful fading around the back pockets.
After your first wash, raw denim becomes a "mirror," showing off the personality of its wearer.
At first, raw denim enthusiasts often refer to new jeans as being in the "larval" stage because they all look the same, simply dyed with indigo. But as you wear them, they start to transform, revealing unique patterns on the thighs, knees (known as whiskers), and leg creases (honeycombs). If a friend buys the same pair of jeans, you'll notice that even after the first wash, the fading and wear patterns will be completely different—no two pairs of raw denim are the same.
Raw denim is a journey that requires patience, but the reward is a one-of-a-kind pair of jeans crafted by you, for you. Isn’t that worth the wait?
Some of the top raw denim brands globally include A.P.C, Naked & Famous, Nudie Jeans, and Acne. Japan also has some of the best denim in the world, with brands like Pure Blue Japan, Momotaro, Japan Blue, Oni Denim, and Samurai Jeans. Though these brands might not be as well-known, they’re revered for their craftsmanship. If you’re in Vietnam, you can also check out Copper Denim, a brand with a 30-year family legacy, offering products specifically designed for the Vietnamese physique.
Copper Denim products.
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