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Because no one should suffer the tragedy of pants that pool at the ankles

Writer: Tom GoedhartTom Goedhart

Updated: Dec 27, 2024

Dress pants - also called trousers - demand a level of precision that jeans or chinos just don’t. Their formal nature requires them to fit impeccably, especially since they’re often worn with a tucked-in shirt or as part of a suit.

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What’s surprising is how many small details in dress pants go unnoticed until they become glaringly obvious. Too long? Too short? Too baggy or tight? Yep, those seemingly minor issues can throw off your entire look.


If you’ve bought ready-to-wear dress pants, odds are you’ll need a trip to the tailor to make them perfect. So let’s break down the key points to discuss with your tailor, so you can walk in with confidence and come out with pants that fit like a dream.


Pleats vs. Flat-Front: What’s the Deal?

The eternal debate: pleated or flat-front? The answer lies in your preferences and how you want your pants to flow.

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Pleated Pants: Some might label these "old school," but don’t let that deter you. Pleats add extra space for movement and comfort, plus they visually elongate the legs - a big win for shorter gents.

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Flat-Front Pants: Sleek, modern, and everywhere you look. These are a universal favorite, fitting a wide range of body types.


Regardless of style, the fit is everything. Slim-fit designs are the gold standard right now. If your pant legs feel baggy, ask your tailor to taper them to around 18 cm at the hem (or adjust based on your body). The result? A polished silhouette that doesn’t skimp on comfort. 😉


Plain Hem vs. Cuffs: Which Suits You Best?

When it comes to the hem, you’ve got two main choices:

  • Plain Hem: Clean and classic. Most guys have plain-hem pants in their wardrobe, and for good reason - they’re timeless and easy to style.

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  • Cuffed Pants: These add a subtle fold at the hem, creating a touch of sophistication. Cuffs are particularly great for taller men, as they give the legs some visual balance. Pairing cuffs with pleats? That’s a recipe for elegance.

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Pro tip: The latest trend with cuffed pants leans toward a slightly higher rise, showing a bit of ankle when you sit. Perfect for adding a modern edge to your outfit.


The Perfect Break: Finding Your Pant Length

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The term “break” refers to how much your pant leg creases at the shoe when you’re standing straight. It’s all about striking the right balance:

  • No Break: A clean, sharp look where the hem stops just above the shoes. This style has a casual vibe and works well with cuffed or cropped hems.

  • Slight Break: A small crease at the shoe - ideal for more formal or office settings.

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Avoid pants that cover your shoe completely or drag at the back. A sweet spot is when the hem gently touches the top of your shoe. This ensures a neat, intentional finish to your look.


Tailoring is what separates good pants from great pants. Whether it’s adjusting the taper, adding cuffs, or perfecting the length, these tweaks elevate your style game to another level. So don’t hesitate - get your pants tailored, and don’t forget to communicate exactly what you want. Your wardrobe will thank you. 😄


 
 

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