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The Downside of Choosing Dark suit Tailoring

Writer: Tom GoedhartTom Goedhart

Updated: Dec 16, 2024

A black suit seems like a no-brainer, right? You’re not alone - most guys see it as a safe choice. But let’s break that down.

*A black suit in Tarantino’s 1992 classic, Reservoir Dogs.

Honestly, black suits aren’t for everyone. There are specific scenarios where black fits: if you’re a chauffeur, a high-end waiter, attending a funeral, moonlighting as a secret agent, or playing a gangster in a Tarantino flick. Sure, some artists pull it off too, but for the average guy? No.


Maybe I'd throw on a black suit if the groom had a “fun” idea of making his entire wedding black-themed, guests included. In that case, sure—the host sets the rules. But I'd rather borrow one than buy it, because when else would I wear it?

By the way, ever noticed John Wick doesn’t even wear black? His suit is actually dark gray to work better with studio lighting.

Blame Tarantino’s cinematic influence for making black suits seem cool. Many guys also mistake dark navy or charcoal gray for black, especially under dim lighting. The reality? Black is an unforgiving color in formalwear, especially if your skin tone is on the paler side.


A black suit suits men with high contrast in hair and skin tone (think black hair, fair skin). But even then, the “washout” effect is hard to avoid, where your complexion looks pale. Plus, a black suit has one pairing option - black shoes. Try any other color, and it’s a miss. Imagine black with brown shoes and belt? That’s a styling nightmare.

Tom Ford’s choice of a black suit is worth noting, though. But he has dark skin, dark hair, and a well-groomed beard to balance the boldness of black. Plus, he’s Tom Ford. We aren’t.


For your first suit, go for navy blue or charcoal gray for a more versatile, less tricky experience with formalwear.

In short, if you’re starting out, stick with navy or charcoal. If you’re a suit pro who’s been through all the colors and patterns, maybe then you’re ready for black - for those special, unpredictable occasions.


 
 

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