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Writer's pictureTom Goedhart

The New Rules of Formal Wear: Mixing Tradition with Innovation

Updated: Dec 16

For anyone still viewing suits as overly formal, stiff, and monotonous, it’s time to shift your perspective. A suit jacket is merely a piece that can be styled in various ways; it’s far from unmanageable. You can effortlessly swap suit trousers for jeans or chinos. Both the suit jacket and trousers are versatile and can look fantastic even when not paired together. So, why not mix things up? Here are four simple ways to make suits feel more relaxed and less "traditional." Which one will you try?


Checkered Suits with Basic Tees

While suits - especially checkered ones - may scream formal wear, the trick lies in balancing your outfit. Checkered suits can feel heavy, so why not lighten them up with something already in your wardrobe: basic tees or solid-colored polo shirts?

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At Canali's Fall/Winter 2015 fashion show, the Italian menswear brand featured checkered windowpane suits paired with simple, solid-colored tees. This combination created a minimalist yet sophisticated look.

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Ditch the Dress Shirt and Tie

The unpredictable weather during transitional seasons can make traditional suit-and-dress-shirt combos less appealing. Full suits can be too warm, while just a dress shirt might leave you chilly. Instead, consider a lightweight turtleneck. Avoid thick, heat-retaining types; opt for lighter, high-cotton versions instead. This look exudes sophistication while giving your style a refreshing twist.

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Suits with Sneakers

Replacing traditional dress shoes with sneakers or trainers instantly adds a "cool" factor to your look - just make sure your choice is smart. For sneakers, keep the suit simple, ideally in neutral tones. I often prefer sneakers in bold colors to create a standout element in an otherwise plain outfit. But if you want to keep it low-key, white sneakers are a timeless option.

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Luca Finotti at Moschino

Look to style icons like Justin Timberlake or Pharrell Williams for inspiration on how to wear suits in a youthful, eye-catching way.

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Swap the Suit Jacket for a Leather Jacket

This is an advanced technique for updating your suit style. While mixing and matching suit pieces isn't new, substituting a suit jacket with a leather one can elevate your look in unexpected ways. Prepare everything as you would with a suit: a buttoned-up dress shirt, a tie, and suit trousers. Then, instead of reaching for a blazer, grab a leather jacket. For a polished look, choose a white dress shirt, and a black, gray, or navy tie, and opt for a classic biker or bomber leather jacket. Check out how Joseph Gordon-Levitt nailed this look in the movie "Looper."

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