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Find the Overcoat That’s Just Right for You

Writer's picture: Tom GoedhartTom Goedhart

Updated: Oct 8, 2024

An overcoat is an essential item in every man’s winter wardrobe. It’s a significant investment, so beyond just looking good, you need to consider your lifestyle, commuting habits, and most importantly, your body type.

What to Consider When Buying an Overcoat

Functionality

Start by considering functionality. Ask yourself: when, where, and for what purpose will you be wearing it? Are you looking for something to wear primarily to work in a formal office setting? Opt for a classic, neutral-toned overcoat that pairs well with your existing suits. If you’re after a coat for casual outings and meeting friends, you might prefer more relaxed styles with youthful patterns and a looser fit.

Fabric

Fabric choice impacts both color and pattern. For a waterproof option, choose a lightweight material. Cashmere wool, though luxurious, requires careful maintenance. Even a coat with just 10%-20% cashmere can be quite pricey and needs to be kept dry. If you need something more durable, consider wool blends or synthetic materials.

A camel-colored overcoat.

Dark colors like black, navy blue, and dark gray are versatile and easy to style. However, don’t overlook the classic appeal of camel yellow for a touch of sophistication.

Length and Fit

Your overcoat should ideally cover the hem of the jacket you're wearing underneath but shouldn’t be so long that it overwhelms you. A length that falls 2-4 inches above your knees is generally ideal. If you prefer a coat that goes past your knees, make sure it’s proportionate to your height and outfit.

Avoid overstuffing your coat pockets with items like keys and phones, as this can distort the coat’s shape. Opt for a slim-fit overcoat for a sleek look, but ensure it has enough room to accommodate layers underneath. The sleeves should extend just past your wrist bone, allowing for comfortable layering.

Popular Types of Overcoats

Single-Breasted Overcoat

This style is the most versatile and easy to wear, suitable for all body types and heights. It typically features a lapel, similar to a suit jacket. For narrow shoulders, choose a coat with narrow lapels; for broader shoulders, go with wider lapels.

Double-Breasted Overcoat

This design is more formal and can add a broader appearance. If you’re shorter, be cautious with this style as it might make you look even shorter. However, double-breasted overcoats are becoming more casual, making them a versatile choice for various occasions.

Double-breasted overcoats have become increasingly casual.

Long Overcoats

These extend past the knees, often reaching mid-calf, and are popular for their warmth and styling versatility. Ideal for tall and slender individuals, they offer excellent coverage and a sleek silhouette.

Other Overcoat Styles

Duffle Coat – The most casual option, featuring a hood and toggle closures.


Peacoat – A naval-inspired style, usually shorter and great for adding height.

Raglan Sleeve – Features a one-piece sleeve design, with seams running from the collar to the underarm. Often seen with a waist belt, it’s suitable for taller individuals and those needing extra room for thick gloves.


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