With suits becoming more popular, it's easy to find them in fashion shops, designer boutiques, and tailor shops across Vietnam. However, despite the growing demand, suits in Vietnam, particularly in Hanoi, often fall short of high-quality standards.
Many suits focus solely on commercial appeal, aiming to cater to trends rather than sticking to the essential quality benchmarks. So, how can you tell if a suit is genuinely good? In this article, I’ll break down the basic points that define a well-made suit.
A suit is made up of two main parts: the jacket (also known as "áo đờ-mi" in Vietnam) and the trousers. Here’s how to assess each component:
JACKET
Shoulders
The shoulders of the jacket should fit you perfectly. If they’re too tight, your movement will feel restricted. If they’re too wide (a common mistake from both tailors and customers), it leads to unsightly folds on each side. The shoulders are arguably the most important part of the suit, and perhaps the trickiest to get right. If you buy a ready-made suit, ensure the shoulders fit first and foremost - everything else can be adjusted to an extent. Without the right shoulder fit, no matter the brand, the suit will look off.
Mike Ross from the TV series Suits, with his impeccably tailored suits.
Collar
The collar should sit comfortably around your neck, with no gap between the shirt and jacket. A gap here is a sign that the suit doesn’t fit properly.
A classic example of a poorly fitting collar is Jordan Belfort’s suit in The Wolf of Wall Street - too wide on the shoulders and open at the collar.
Sleeve Length
Your jacket sleeves should reveal about 1-1.5 cm of the shirt sleeve beneath. This adds the right touch of formality and polish.
Jacket Length
Jacket length is a topic that sparks much debate. In brands from Korea, or high-end international labels like Dolce & Gabbana or Dior, jackets are often cut shorter for a youthful, edgy look. However, in Vietnam, shorter jackets are common in men’s fashion brands, which can cause issues for guys who aren’t super tall or slim. When jackets are too short, your backside might show when you walk, and the front flaps may flare out awkwardly.
A jacket should fall just past the first knuckle of your thumb, enough to cover your rear without feeling overly long or short.
Front/Back Fit
When wearing the suit, the front and back of the jacket should lie smooth against your body, with no excess folds or wrinkles from being too tight or too loose. A common issue is X-shaped wrinkles at the front when buttoned, or excess fabric causing a loose back fit.
The front of the shirt seems a bit tight compared to Beckham's physique.
A shirt with excess fabric at the back.
Waist
The waist of the jacket should fit snugly to accentuate your shape and avoid a boxy, shapeless look, a common mistake in many off-the-rack suits. Tom Ford, for example, is known for creating suits that cinch at the waist, highlighting the wearer's silhouette. If you’ve got a waist to show off, don’t be afraid to let it shine!
A "modern" suit from Dior with boxy cuts and minimal waist shaping.
Meanwhile, Tom Ford suits are known for their signature waist tailoring.
TROUSERS
Waistband
Your trousers’ waistband should fit well around your waist, even without a belt. In Vietnam, many mistakenly pair loose trousers with belts, but a belt should be an accessory, not a necessity. When you fold the trousers along the crease and lay them flat, the back waistband should sit slightly higher than the front. This helps prevent the waistband from gaping open when you sit or bend.
Thom Browne is famous for his trousers that have no belt loops.
A pair of trousers with a well-constructed waistband.
Crotch Fit
The crotch should fit comfortably, without being too tight or loose, to avoid creases while sitting. A too-tight crotch can be uncomfortable when sitting down or moving, so make sure it provides enough space for ease of movement.
Thigh and Leg Fit
Regardless of the trousers’ style, the legs should fit comfortably and allow for freedom of movement, especially when sitting down or climbing stairs. If slim-fit trousers are too tight on your calves, consider widening the leg by 1.5–2 cm for added comfort and mobility.
A pair of trousers that fit snugly even when sitting.
These trousers look very "slim fit," but they would be difficult to move in.
Here are the basic standards of a good suit, summarized in a brief table below:
These are the basic standards of a well-crafted suit, summarized in a handy table below. While there are more advanced standards for the discerning suit connoisseur, this article covers the essentials that can help you choose a suit that looks and feels great.
Stay tuned for my next post, where I’ll review a bespoke suit in Hanoi, judging it by these criteria.
RYAN,
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