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Writer's pictureTom Goedhart

The Rise of an Urban Icon

Updated: 4 days ago

When an American baseball player strides across the field, there's a good chance he’s sporting a wool Varsity jacket, complete with leather sleeves and an oversized letter stitched onto the chest. Also known as the Letterman jacket, this iconic piece has undergone a captivating reimagination since its resurgence in the latter part of 2020, blending seamlessly into the fabric of modern streetwear culture.

The jacket's enduring charm owes much to the legacies of legends like Elvis Presley, James Dean, and Michael Jackson, who have woven this symbol of American youth into the very tapestry of pop culture. What once was a symbol of high school athletic pride has now transcended its roots, becoming a versatile style essential for everyone. Through the years, the Varsity jacket has evolved, its design and significance intricately intertwining with various subcultures.

The Varsity jacket shares certain similarities with the Bomber jacket, with a comparable collar and elastic cuffs. Yet, the two are distinct in several ways. After reading this article, you’ll certainly be able to delve into the details and distinguish between the two at a glance! 😎

The origins of the Varsity jacket date back to 1865, when it began its journey as a simple knit sweater worn by the Harvard University baseball team. The centerpiece of this early design was the embroidered “H” on the chest - marking the birth of the “Letterman” term, symbolizing a student awarded the honor for athletic achievement. It wasn’t just a garment; it was a badge of honor, a mosaic of pride for those who excelled in the crucible of competition.


In those early days, the jacket was a coveted prize, worn by the top performers on the team. It wasn’t simply handed to anyone. By the end of the season, only the stars of the squad could retain their jackets, while the rest were expected to return theirs to the school - a practice that reinforced the jacket’s connection to personal achievement.

Fast forward ten years, and the Varsity jacket began to spread beyond the confines of Harvard, with various adaptations in turtlenecks, cardigans, and other designs. Yet, the core value remained: this was a symbol of excellence, reserved for the best.

By the 1930s, the Varsity jacket’s design began to crystallize into its more familiar form: a wool body paired with leather sleeves, offering warmth and durability. This new version quickly became a standard on athletic fields across America, while also adorning the shoulders of the most accomplished students.

What makes the Varsity jacket unique, and distinct from the Bomber jacket, is its attention to detail.

The leather sleeves, the patterned trims on the collar, cuffs, and hem, and the iconic snap buttons all contribute to the jacket's intricate design. Its hallmark is the large embroidered letter, signifying an individual's achievement, and as accolades grow, so too do the additional patches and symbols of status.

In the early 1900s, Varsity jackets began to be a token of affection as well - often given by a boy to his girlfriend as a public sign of their relationship, marking their connection in an enigmatic and charming way.

In the 1980s, the Varsity jacket entered a new chapter, beckoning fans of professional sports. The jacket, which was once an exclusive symbol of athletic prowess, now became a fixture for fans as well, featuring team logos and mascot embroidery. Satin versions replaced the traditional wool and leather, making it accessible to a broader audience, while still preserving its nostalgic link to athletic culture.

Today, the Varsity jacket is no longer confined to the fields of high schools or stadiums. Instead, it has taken on a life of its own in the world of fashion. Whether styled in a way that honors its Ivy League roots with slacks and leather shoes for a smart-casual look, or with a more laid-back vibe of jeans and sneakers, the Varsity jacket remains a versatile piece that continues to evolve in style and significance. From plain designs to those embellished with intricate embroidery, this iconic piece stands as a testament to nearly 100 years of cultural relevance.


The Varsity jacket has woven itself into the fabric of fashion, and it shows no signs of fading into the background. It continues to evolve, offering a timeless yet fresh option for any wardrobe.


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