Suits, with their variety of materials, meticulous construction, and sometimes jaw-dropping prices, are all about celebrating the male form. Traditionally, they emphasize masculinity with broad shoulders and a cinched waist - essentially sculpting strength into the wearer’s silhouette. But every tradition is meant to be challenged. Over the last 50 years, designers have redefined the suit in remarkable ways, exploring the male physique from fresh perspectives.
Before Giorgio Armani became a fashion powerhouse, he was a medical student, well-versed in anatomy. This understanding translated into his designs, as he abandoned rigid elements like gorge lines and heavy padding. Instead, Armani introduced a softer drape from shoulder to hip - a radical move during an era dominated by stiff and formal tailoring.
Giorgio Armani, 1992
Armani stripped away the internal structure, letting suits flow naturally over the body. This shift turned attention to the wearer rather than the fabric, redefining the relationship between suit and physique.
In 1975, Armani founded his eponymous brand, reaching new heights five years later with his costumes for American Gigolo. His lightweight, unstructured suits, designed for Richard Gere, resembled a second skin. The softer fabrics demanded a toned body, encouraging men to hit the gym in the 1980s, making fitness a part of the suit’s aesthetic.
Gucci, 1995
Ford took Armani’s fluid approach and added sensuality.
When Tom Ford became Gucci’s Creative Director in 1994, he reimagined the suit as a tool for seduction. Ford’s designs featured sharp shoulders, tight waists, and flared trousers that accentuated the wearer’s physique - especially the backside.
His suits hugged the body, often paired with low-cut shirts that invited confidence and boldness. The message was clear: flaunt your form, unapologetically.
Dior Homme, 2007 Hedi Slimane, appointed Creative Director of Dior Homme in 2000, introduced a dramatic contrast to the muscular ideal. Slimane’s black skinny suits were sleek, minimalist, and tailored for extremely slim figures.
“Dior’s suits under Slimane required you to be extremely skinny. I had no choice but to diet and exercise relentlessly.” - Karl Lagerfeld
While Ford celebrated robust masculinity, Slimane leaned into a melancholic, lean aesthetic. His designs prioritized emotion over strength, marking a shift in how masculinity was expressed through suits.
Thom Browne, 2018
Browne’s eccentric approach didn’t stop there.
Thom Browne emerged as another disruptor, starting with bespoke tailoring in 2001. His signature shrunken suit defied all traditional proportions - high armholes, cropped trousers, and narrow shoulders.
He blended gray tones with bold statements, dressing muscular men in skirts and pairing tuxedos with wedding gowns. His daring experiments pushed the boundaries of masculinity and style.
Gucci, 2019–2020
Icons like Jared Leto and Harry Styles embraced these designs, blending masculine and feminine aesthetics seamlessly.
Alessandro Michele, inspired by Browne, took over Gucci in 2015 and introduced gender-fluid designs. Michele played with exaggerated shoulders, wide lapels, and flared pants, turning the body into a canvas for bold expression.
Ermenegildo Zegna x Fear of God, 2020
Their collection, featuring collarless jackets inspired by baseball shirts, removed traditional suit stiffness, prioritizing comfort and spirit.
In 2020, Alessandro Sartori of Ermenegildo Zegna partnered with Jerry Lorenzo of Fear of God to create suits that embodied both elegance and ease.
These relaxed designs perfectly captured the mood of a world adapting to social distancing.
From Armani’s unstructured elegance to Michele’s gender-fluid statements, the suit has evolved to reflect changing ideals of masculinity, physique, and identity. Each designer brought a unique interpretation, ensuring the suit remains a symbol of reinvention.
Theo GQ.
Comments