Thinking about becoming a watch aficionado but not sure where to start? My advice: start simple and build your knowledge. With some essentials under your belt, you’ll feel much more confident.
Let’s put it this way: it’s like having a few "weapons" to spar with the salesperson. Consider this the first article in a series that will "arm" you with watch expertise!
Mechanical vs. Quartz: The Basics
Left: mechanical watch, right: quartz watch.
Phải, đồng hồ cơ – mechanical watch là loại đồng hồ mà bạn phải lên cót nó mới chạy.
Mechanical watches work off a wound spring. There are two kinds: Automatic – which winds itself as you move, so it keeps ticking as long as you wear it. It does need maintenance every 3-5 years. Then there’s Manual Winding – you twist the crown to wind the spring yourself. Classic brands like Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Rolex, and Omega are known for their mechanical watches due to their craftsmanship and complexity.
Quartz watches, on the other hand, rely on a quartz crystal that vibrates in an electric field created by a battery. Quartz watches are highly accurate and generally more affordable because they have fewer moving parts, meaning less energy loss. That’s why quartz watches make up most of the market today, but don’t be fooled – a few high-end quartz pieces can still cost tens of thousands.
Want to spot the difference? Look at the second hand: mechanical watches “sweep” smoothly, while quartz watches “tick” each second.
P.S. A quick warning: if you see a “sweeping” second hand on a watch like a quartz Rolex or Patek Philippe, it’s likely a fake. A genuine Seiko for $40 beats a counterfeit Rolex any day. When buying, stay real!
Types of Watches: Tool vs. Dress
Daniel Craig – Brioni tux and Seamaster watch.
Tool Watches: Made for a purpose beyond telling time, tool watches include divers, pilots, and sports models. A classic diver (like a Rolex Submariner or Omega Seamaster) offers luminescent hands and high water resistance, ideal for underwater use. Pilot or sports watches often feature chronographs (stopwatches) and tachymeters (speedometers). Tool watches typically come in larger sizes, often 42mm or above, with rugged metal, fabric, or rubber straps.
Dress Watches: Sleek and stylish, dress watches are usually smaller, around 36-38mm, with leather straps and simpler dials. Luxury dress watches often boast complications like minute repeaters, perpetual calendars, and tourbillons. Pair these with a suit, and you’re ready to make a subtle but powerful statement.
Feel free to mix it up: Bond himself wears an Omega Seamaster with a tux!
Watch Budgets: Bang for Your Buck (Sometimes)
George Clooney has always been "tied" to Omega watches.
Contrary to what you may think, quality watches don’t have to break the bank. You can find a solid Seiko made in Japan for around $40. As Tủ, a well-known watch expert, puts it:
$50: Timex, Casio
$100: Seiko, Citizen, Orient
$200: Seiko, Orient, Citizen, Bulova
$300+: Hamilton, Tissot, Frederique Constant
Of course, there are other brands too – if you need help finding a fit, leave a comment, and I’ll help you choose!
One last word: skip the knockoffs. Watches are high-status accessories – one glance and people can tell the kind of guy you are.
Sizing: Nailing the Perfect Fit
Once you’ve chosen your watch, make sure it fits your wrist. A too-small diver will look out of place, while an oversized face can come off as flashy. Here’s a formula from Tủ:
Wrist Circumference / 4.5 = optimal size
Wrist Circumference / 4 = max size
Wrist Circumference / 5 = minimum size
In general, dress watches should be a bit smaller, tool watches larger, and casual watches somewhere in between.
These tips will set you on the right path. Next time, we’ll dive deeper into mechanical watch mechanics, terminology, and more. Stay tuned!
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